![]() ![]() There are a variety of methods available for controlling multiflora rose. If you add up all the patches of pasture that are lost to these weeds it soon becomes a significant amount. You probably have noticed how animals will leave a patch of grass around the multiflora rose. Thorns can also cause damage to eyes and other sensitive skin areas. This allows it to out compete the plants the animals prefer to eat, and it takes over larger areas of pasture every year. What makes this such a problem plant? Most species of pasture animals do not eat multiflora rose. Stems that are in contact with the ground can form roots which become a new plant, and roots are also able to produce new plants. Seeds are not the only way this plant spreads. Once deposited these seeds can remain viable for up to 20 years. One multiflora rose can produce up to 500,000 seeds per year. ![]() The white flowers it produces in May to June lead to seeds that birds are more than happy to spread throughout pastures. Left on its own, this plant can quickly form dense thickets over 6 feet high. The leaves and thorns on this plant make it easy to identify as a rose. The battle to gain control is difficult and maintenance is continual. Over the years this plant has made the list of noxious weeds in many states and is taking over many pastures in this part of the country. The adaptability of this plant allowed it to get out of control. Soil Conservation Service promoted the use of multiflora rose as a “living fence” and a means of erosion control. The plant was first introduced into the United States in 1866 to be used as a rootstock for grafting roses. There is one pasture project that never seems to go away. You will never get rid of morning glory by trying to pull it or dig up the roots - it's better to let it grow and then poison it, roots and all (repeat as necessary).– Dean Kreager, Licking County Agriculture and Natural Resources Educator (originally published in Farm and Dairy) I've got morning glory and english ivy that keep poking up, so when I see a random shoot, I let it grow so it has some leaves to spray, and then grab that spray bottle and hit it. Oh, and I keep a small spray bottle of roundup/crossbow for touchup work. If I'm spraying brushy areas, I also add Crossbow to the mix as well to kill the blackberries. I see the effect in a few days to a week, so I know that it took. Now I use the generic Roundup (40% IIRC, I buy it cheap at the farm store), and mix it about 2-3 ounces per gallon, along with some dishsoap. They confirmed that both sets of instructions were correct. So what do the instructions say for the concentrate that I bought? ONE ounce per gallon! I couldn't believe it! So I called the company and asked them. ![]() Puzzled by this, I got one of the empty pre-mix containers from my neighbor and read the instructions for refilling it: TEN ounces of concentrate per gallon. finally 3 weeks later you could see the effects. So I went out and bought Weedstop concentrate and mixed it according to the instructions. Example: My neighbor used pre-mixed Weedstop, and the weeds looked sick the next day and were dead within the week. Here's the thing with weed killers - the concentration is all over the map, even straight from the factory instructions. Works for prescription drugs, works for herbicides. If you read the labels, the weed killer in weed-n-feed is 2, 4 D. This information is gathered over 60+ years experience (I'm 80), and may not be up-to-date, but works for me. I've tried rock salt and wasn't impressed. It comes in a pelletized form and I spread it by hand (feeding the chickens). If you aren't in a hurry to see plants die, it will kill existing plants and prevent growth for over a year, in my experience. All this addresses existing weeds.įor prolonged weed prevention, I use monobor chlorate, not available in all states. A surfactant (soap) will increase effectiveness. Actually, the banned 2, 4, 5 T (agent orange) is more effective but, obviously, not available. Glyphosate alone is not so effective against blackberry and other vines, 2,4 D is (brush killer). I've heard (from a farmer friend) mixing glyphosate at over recommended dilutions actually diminishes its effectiveness. al.), mixed in at or near the recommended dilutions to kill existing plants around the mail box post, fence bottoms, driveway cracks, etc. I use a combination of glyphosate and 2,4 D (read Crossbow, et. Crossbow is a broadleaf plant killer and won't kill narrow leaf (read grass) plants. ![]()
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